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Considerations when photographing the night sky in summer

In the event that you routinely look at photography discussions and follow picture takers on informal communities, you more likely than not saw the huge number of photographs of stars, the Milky Way and circumpolar photographs in the late spring, albeit this is the one of the most exceedingly awful seasons for these kinds of shots. The photographs are amazing and appear to be hard to accomplish however this isn’t true at all. Here is a progression of ways to photo the night sky in summer.

The sky in summer isn’t more marvelous than in winter, a long way from it, however we have all the more extra energy with special times of year, the virus isn’t so serious around evening time and we visit places not the same as this that we are utilized to seeing. All these circumstances clarify the multiplication of nighttime photographs, notwithstanding the way that they are all the time dynamite and that to take them, we are really glad to go out around evening time to rehearse our beloved leisure activity.

Considerations beforehand

We will now make three considerations beforehand before diving into the dark summer night:

Exposure triangle: Do you know how the exposure triangle works? And the law of reciprocity? These aspects are essential and if as a daytime photographer you already have to master them, it will be essential as a night photographer.

Maximum usable ISO value: yes, our digital cameras have very high ISO values ​​but the result is often not up to par, hence the importance of controlling them well. What is the maximum value I can use for a more or less acceptable result? Warning: it is not the same thing to take a photo with an ISO 5000 at 1/200 s than at 1/600 s. Long exposures generate a lot of heat on the sensors, which causes more noise in the image, so I repeat, you will have to control these ISO values ​​carefully.

Also related to ISO, long exposure noise reduction is usually available on high-end and mid-range cameras. This option consists, roughly speaking, of processing the noise of the capture as long as the exposure lasted. If the photo was exposed for 5 minutes, the process will also take 5 minutes and during that time, nothing can be done with the camera. Be careful, therefore, when you use this function because it may cause you problems if you are planning very long exposures or time-lapses, circumpolar or shooting shooting stars.

Focusing at night: I advise you to deactivate the autofocus (I may only use it to photograph the moon alone, we will see later) and to use the hyperfocal to try to do a complete focus on the landscape as on the night sky. Infinity focus is only recommended if you are sure that your film lens has the distances properly calibrated. In fact, sometimes the infinity signal is not clearly displayed on the film lens, so that we focus beyond it and end up not focusing on no element of the shot.

Pay attention to the focus, especially on long exposure photos because it can waste many hours of work. Don’t rely too much on the on-screen previews either. Either way, open it wide to make sure the focus will be on the expected area.

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